Life Is Like Surfing

Life is like Surfing.

Opposite of chess

Going with the flow

Waiting for a chance

That you have no control

May come large

But crumble out before you get to your feet

Or some are short and not very steep

But then comes The ONE

You paddle and dig to pick up speed

And when your chance comes

A slip changes The ONE to a stampede

Crushes you while pulling you under

Spins you while stealing your air

For a second you just want to give up

and stay under there

but then you hit the bottom

and you find your way up

your head is above water

and you're pulling yourself on

paddling your way back out

another set gearing up for a bout

resiliently working through one’s doubts

under, over, and through

you made it out to the calm blue.

Now we wait for The ONE… part two